|
Question:
I need some advise from some real machinist.
of. unfortunately I had a stroke and I have come back quite a bit and
I'm getting better it seems.
I need to hear from other Machinists who have over come these
handicaps and have gone
on with there work and there lives. So let me here from some of
you guys. John O.
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Answer:
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|
Question: I need the threading dial assembly
option for the Goodway GW-1440 engine lathe. Any condition
considered. Howard N. Wolff: Hnwolffmfg2@aol.com
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Answer:
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|
Question:
I just bought a Goodway GW-1440 lathe, built in the 70's. I am
impressed with the construction of the lathe, but would like to find a operators
manual, maintenance manual including wiring schematic, parts book, and
best source for parts. Photo copies would even be acceptable.
Also, a good photo of the feed chart would be handy. You can
publish my email address.
Howard N. Wolff
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Answer:
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|
Question: HS
1020 Lathe: I'm looking for information on this machine I believe it's
USSR made but have no information I was told it was a copy of a
Colchester Triumph
it seems well made and very heavy
construction the indicators are in
Russian for the speed controls and thread instructions, can
anybody help in anyway? Thanks A.D. Gill
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Answer:
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|
Question: I just bought a Shye Shing? model
engine lathe...I cannot find any information on this lathe, would love
to find a manual, but all the information on the lathe seems to have
rubbed off...Any help would be appreciated.
-Campbell Levy
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|
Answer: We get a lot of
questions about manuals, parts lists and obtaining parts.
First suggestion would to be to hunt the internet, do a search, more and
more information from both companies and individuals are being posted on
servers. Second personal suggestion is to going to one of the
links on our links page: http://www.lathes.co.uk
Tony Griffiths has found and put up a LOT of information, more than any
other site. The site now offers reprints and original books,
documents and manuals for sale. The last suggestion is
hunting on eBay, I am not sure why
eBay has so much in the way of machinist and machine tool items but they
do. There are dozens of auction sites but for some reason eBay is
the only one that has a lot of the stuff we guys are looking for, if you
have not been on eBay you should give it a try. We personally have
purchase a good deal of tooling over the past half dozen
years. Some might have a more personal piece of information
for Mr. Levy, please feel free to send it to chat@machinist-materials.com
and we will be sure to get it up. Thanks for all your support, MM
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|
Question:
I have a 14" Southbend lathe, mfgd.
in 1928 (I'm told) I need parts for the feed assembly, including the
split nut. I would like to get a parts book if possible.
Thank you
Alex
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Answer: Southbend is such an industry
standard, that even for old ones there is lots of information and
parts. We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools. We also have an old Southbend, a 9" and
have been able to locate a fair number of parts on eBay. Many sellers
purchase old lathes and break them down for their part and sell these
individually, which is a shame I think, but it does allow us that need
parts a chance to purchase.
John D.
|
Question: Does any one have a gear change
chart for a Summit 11x32 inch lathe (mine is serial #385) to
cut metric, Whitworth and unified threads? A chart for any compound head
lathe with a 6 tpi lead screw would probably work. Or is there
some software? Thanks,
Bob J.
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|
Answer: We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
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|
Question: I am looking for an owners or users
manual for this metal lathe the size is 11" sawing 5 1/2 ft bed
catalog number is 84-SB can anyone help? Honeybug
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|
Answer: We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
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|
Question:
I have acquired a Rockwell lathe, model 46-200 and would like to see
how much it is worth. I have no idea where to start. Ebay does not
have one on any auctions. Can you give me a general idea, or perhaps
send me in the right direction?
Thanks Tony in Texas
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|
Answer: We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
|
Question: Can anyone tell me how to identify
a weld in 316 stainless steel that has been finished without an x-ray or
chroming. Is there a solution or dye that would discolor at the
weld?
Chris C.
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Answer:
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Question: I recently purchased a Cincinnati
hydroshift lathe, do not know what year but electrical schematic shows
1959. Does anyone know how I can obtain parts manuals for this
lathe? Also, lathe is stuck in one gear and will not switch out,
any suggestions what might be the problem? Fluid levels are good.
P. Sharp
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|
Answer: We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
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|
Question: I
run a machine shop and would like to know where to get
a chart on the speed and feed of machining stainless steel. Clyde M.
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|
Answer: I have
compiled a list of speeds and feeds for 316 SS that is an average of all
the old recommended values that were given by the mills that
manufactured the material. I would be glad to send a copy of what I have
to CLYDE M. The info was used successfully by many companies that were
noted for being expert at machining 316 SS, I used the data myself for
over 20 years.
Lon J. Link
to speed and feed chart and more from Lon J.
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|
Question: Need
wiring schematic for a Leblonde 3220-25 3nfl1182 can anyone help or direct
me to someone who can? Thanks. Mike.
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|
Answer:
We would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
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|
Question: I have a SB lathe with
spacers to make it into a 24in lathe from a 16in lathe. Has about10 ft
of bed. All accessories have the spacers. Any ideas on this machine?
Thanks you. GD
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| Answer:
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Question: Does
anyone have an operator's manual for a Supermax YCM 16 VS? Ours is missing
and they are out of print.
Eric
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| Answer: We
would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
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Question: I
OWN A FOSTER #3 TURRET LATHE. I AM INTERESTED IN OBTAINING ANY DATA
ON THIS LATHE OR ANY FOSTER LATHE.
Frank
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Answer: I would
suggest trying http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
they have a great deal of information on a wide variety of machines.
GD
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| Question: I
WAS LOOKING AT A 9 INCH SOUTHBEND METAL LATHE MODEL 344CL.COULD YOU TELL
ME WHAT YEARS WERE THEY MADE AND DO YOU KNOW IF THE HEADSTOCK HAS BEARINGS
OR BUSHING. I DON'T KNOW THE SERIAL NUMBER THANKS. MV
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Answer: I would
suggest trying http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
they have a great deal of information on a wide variety of machines.
GD
|
Question: I
need a recommendation for a ASME equivalent
for an Italian spring steel. 3545-80 grade 52 it is a low alloy steel. I
will use round billet and slice like sausage. The heat treat is 35 rc-c.
Is there a reference
sheet that cross references different materials to ASME standards??
Thanks Arn
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| Answer:
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| Question: Is
there an easy way to replace the yoke and sliding sleeve on an Atlas
10" model D lathe. The yoke won't fit, must I remove the reversing
gearbox... but I am not sure how?? Must all the change gear assembly
be removed, to remove the gear case?? Joe
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| Answer:
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Question: I
have an atlas #10128910 and I am in search for some gears for it. I
need the gears that are on the gear change handles that transfer
power from one end of the tumbler box to the other. They are around 15 to 20
tooth I would guess ( they are gone) any help will be great, thank you.
mike hedger
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| Answer:
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| Question:
I did some work for this old lathe the model
no. 101.28940 and ser. no. is 001608 I need the gear that sets in the
quick change lever that runs the a-e can you help me in any way .The
inside key is stripped out so it wont turn the shaft. Thank You Mike
Sligar
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| Answer:
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| Question:
I am trying to build a contemporary 4 poster bed
from 1.75" aluminum square tubing .125 wall. Don't want to show
any fastener from the outside at right angle joinery. My current
idea is using a piece of 1.5 C Channel welded or bolted to adjacent faces
of the vertical post, The rail could be slipped over the channel and
bolted from the inside. If the bottom face of the rail were open for
a few inches, there would be access to lock washer and nut inside the
rail. Any ideas are welcome. Lastly, does anyone foresee
1/8" wall 1.75 aluminum square NOT being rigid enough to span the
80" rail length without flexing ?
Mark Casstevens
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| Answer:
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Question: We
plan to start machining a polypropylene fiberglass composite material on a
new CNC router. The core is sandwiched between two outer laminates and is
honeycomb type. Some of the operations will be blanking and others will be
finishing of formed (compressed) edges. Will an arbor saw be best for
blanking or compression spiral router? What types and brands of cutters
are recommended. Thanks for your help.
K.J.
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| Answer:
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Question: Would anyone have
or have access to any
original or copies of manuals for a 1932 Foster #3 "Fastenermatic"
turret lathe? I'm trying to restore one and need the manuals.
Thanks!
Jim
Zak
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Response: Hi
Jim, Any luck on the Foster turret lathe? I have one also and
can't find any information. Mine works good except the feed are
stuck on, even when disengaged. I have to put the lead screws in neutral
and use manually.
Debra Finn
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| Answer:
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Question:
I recently purchased a W.P. DAVIS metal
lathe made in Rochester, N.Y.. for $300 with all the tooling. it seems
to be in fair condition and everything works. it's about a 12" x
30" between centers but I can't get any info on it. none of the web
sites have any info or even this brand name. can anyone tell me where i
can get any info on it like manuals parts tooling date of mfg. or its
worth. any information would be helpful and appreciated.
JIMMY
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| Answer: Physically it
looks a lot like a Southbend. I could not find W.P. Davis anywhere
myself. I would suggest checking with two sources for information: http://www.southbendlathe.com
and http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
this is a good site for archival information on hundreds of machine
tools. JD.
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| Answer:
Mine is also a WP and like Jimmy I can't
find anything but would like to show him what my model looks like.
Here are some pics.
Rob
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| Question: I am
looking for something that would help me to understand or learn how to
read gages and blueprint. I guess it would be something like
reference or a dictionary and a website where if I have questions then I
could go in and chat with the expert. thank you Neng Her
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| Answer:
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| Question: I
have a very old Holbrook Lathe, Model B, No. 13C 193, and am looking for a
manual or at the very least, some information on the lathe, especially how
to cut metric threads. Do I need a different chasing dial gear or lead
screw gears. If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
Regards Pete.
|
Answer: One of the
places that has been resource rich for us has been eBay. You just never
know when interesting or odd items will show up. Another resource is a
site in the UK, http://www.lathes.co.uk/holbrook/page5.html
They actually have it listed. Their link is on our links
page. GD
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| Answer:
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| Question: I
have a lathe (Model #10128990, S/#105731). Would appreciate any sources
you could provide for 1) manual 2)parts. Mike Morris
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| Answer: What
is the make of the lathe? George P.
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| Question: I have a Van
Norman Mill model #16 I was wondering were is a good place to find parts
and accessories for it? I just got it and if any one can give me advice or
there opinion of this brand I would appreciate it. David
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| Answer:
Needless to
say, it's the best brand ever created, by far, and, incidentally, you
have one of the rarest VN's ever created (less than 1000 - I have
one of the other 16's). What we do most is swap advice, parts &
leads on obtaining parts. Come on over & check it out. William
Shepherd
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| Question: I'm
wanting to invest in a wood working lathe, The purpose I was want to use
it for will be turning tops for walking sticks and possibly the shaft of
the stick it's self, as well as blows etc. Can any one point me in
the right direction of a good lathe.
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| Answer:
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| Question: Have
you ever heard of something called "machinist's chain"? A
friend of mine received some as a gift a number of years back. It's
particularly smooth chain, standard size links, made of stainless steel.
Natalie G.
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| Answer:
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| Question:
I need to machine titanium, any trick
coolant or type of tools I need to
machine keyways and snap-ring grooves. Arnie J.
|
| Answer:
|
Question: I
NEED INFORMATION ON HOW TO OBTAIN AN OPERATIONAL MANUAL FOR A 14 1/2 X 16
SOUTHBEND QUICK CHANGE LATHE.
AlHlcmb
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| Answer: We
would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
|
Question: Does
anyone have any suggestions on what might be a practical way of running
slotted material (11/32" 12-15 steel) on a 5 spindle automatic
davenport machine? I am currently running the job out of 12-15 material
and there has been talk of eliminating a operation if i could possibly run
the part with slotted material. So far I've had very little luck trying to
machine the slotted material.
Bill
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| Answer:
|
| Question: I need
information about Annealing (Stress-relieving) UHMW Polyethylene.
The manufacturer says that the cooling rate is important, and we want to
find out the reason(s) why the cooling rate is important. We cannot
get specifics from the manufacturer about the cooling rate and time. We
are interested in finding out the effect a higher or lower cooling rate
has on the material. We are also trying to locate a diagram of the
cooling rate. Could you provide information or tell me where I can find
this information? J. Hutchinson
|
| Answer:
Annealing (stress relief) of machined or semi-finished UHMW products is
recommended when dimensional stability and freedom of distortion (warping
& bowing) of the finished part is desired. Annealing temperatures of
210-310° F (100-160° C) combined with slow cooling will
relieve residual stresses, normally caused by non-uniform crystallization
during the cooling process. Thicker parts are more subject to residual
stresses, since the outside surface cools much more rapidly than the
insulated core of the part or billet. Rapid cooling creates an
outer shell which restricts shrinking and promotes internal stresses.
In order to properly anneal our Gar-DurŪ
brand of UHMW Polyethylene, the part should be heated in an oven or a
liquid bath containing silicone oil or glycerine. Temperatures above
275-280° F (135-138° C), the crystalline melting range of Gar-DurŪ
UHMW are preferred. Although heating rate is not important (20° F or 10°
C/hr above 175° F or 80° C), cooling rate is critical and care must be
taken to slowly reduce the oven or bath temperature at 10° F (5° C) per
hour until reaching 150° F (65° C). The part should then be wrapped an
insulating blanket to permit slow cooling for 24 hours.
Machined parts with narrow tolerances should only be rough machined
prior to stress relief. These parts should be fixtured during the
annealing process due to shrinkage. Care should be taken not to overheat
the machined surface during final machining to eliminate potential
distortion and dimensional changes.
Best Regards,
Dan
|
Question: I
was wondering if anybody had a cure for tool handles that are starting to
degrade - I have some Bondhus ball-drivers with plastic handles that have
begun to form a smelly film on them after they have been stored in a damp
basement for a short time.
Eric N.
|
| Answer:
|
Question: I'm
looking for a parts list for a Goodway CNC Lathe Model 410. Any idea and
where I could find one.
Thanks. Michelle P.
|
| Answer: We
would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
|
| Question: I
have a 9"x48" Southbend lathe ( with taper attachment) in my
shop. I would like to have a mini lathe to take with me on holidays in my
R/V. Do you know who made the smallest lathe with a taper attachment.
Thanks kindly. Berrie
|
| Answer: Go
to www.leblondeusa.com with
your serial # and they will look up your lathe and let you know if they
have parts or manuals available. they also own Southbend now and can
provide similar help those. DeWayne T.
|
Question: I've
been trying very hard to find an affordable
material that stays cool, is smooth on the inside diameter and is flexible
that comes in 3" on the inside diameters...the thickness is not too
big of an issue only it is necessary to state that I plan to use
this for creating a more efficient air intake channel to pipe between my
air filter and throttle body of my car... any knowledgeable on appropriate
materials to use for this project would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks J. Wolff
|
| Answer:
|
Question:
Does anyone have an operator's manual for a Supermax YCM 16
VS? Ours is missing and they are out of print.
Eric
|
Answer: I would
suggest trying a search on eBay, they have a number of manuals for older
equipment.
Robert T.
|
| Answer: We
would suggest to going to http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
as one source, they have collected an amazing amount of data and manuals
for machine tools.
|
| Question:
I want to look at and print some charts for
speeds, and feeds for a metal lathe and also for what drill to use for
what tap. any help will be appreciated. Carla and Greg
|
| Answer:
There are a number of "charts"
available from numerous companies and some are even online. One
suggestion is that these speed and feed rates are mostly set to best
possible production and for the hobbyist we don't really need
highest-fastest speed and feed possible. Some times what we want
is just a good finish and a little more time invested is OK.
I would recommend that you invest in a copy
of the Machinery Handbook, you'll only need one to last you most of the
rest of your life. A old friend once told me that if the world was
destroyed and had to start over the only two books that one would
need would be the bible and the Machinery's
Handbook and he wasn't that sure about the bible. If the
$85 price is too dear search eBay for an older addition.
John
D.
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| Question: What
I want is some colored pieces or Acrylic, not clear. I currently have some
clear, but for some reason it is very difficult to drill properly, it
keeps trying to melt inside and when it gets hot like that it becomes very
brittle. The thickness that I will end up, is like a ring approx. 3/8
thick by 1/2 dia. with a 5/16 hole in the middle. Any other
suggestions? Thanks Randy
|
| Answer: I would
suggest brad-point bits and flood cooling with a maybe water. Making sure
the tool is very sharp and polished. We do not have a supply of
colored acrylic. John D.
|
| Question:
Do you know of anything that can be used to
strengthen highly detailed and quite thin lexan (remote control car body
shells.)
thanks Matt
|
Answer: Matt, You might try applying
a few coats of the high viscosity cement for acrylics that can be found on
page #3135 of the Issue #108 McMasterr-Carr catalog. I have done extensive
bonding with both the low viscosity and high viscosity cement, and
for achieving a build-up to strengthen the body you would want the high
viscosity.
Good luck, Steve
|
Question:
I recently acquired a LeBlond 16" X
8" engine lathe. The serial number is: C9110. Where can I find
the manufacturer's specs on this lathe? One thing I need is whether or not
it has hardened ways. Is LeBlond still in business? Does
anyone have any idea what the value of this lathe might be? It is
larger than I can justify in my shop, and I would like to sell it and
replace it with a smaller lathe, plus some additional equipment /
accessories.
Dean Jackson
|
| Answer: go
to www.leblondeusa.com
with your serial # and they will look up your lathe and let you know if
they have parts or manuals available. they also own Southbend now and can
provide similar help those. DeWayne T.
|
| Question:
I recently purchased a W.P. DAVIS metal
lathe made in Rochester, N.Y.. for $300 with all the tooling. it seems
to be in fair condition and everything works. it's about a 12" x
30" between centers but I can't get any info on it. none of the web
sites have any info or even this brand name. can anyone tell me where i
can get any info on it like manuals parts tooling date of mfg. or its
worth. any information would be helpful and appreciated.
JIMMY
|
| Answer: Do you have any
pictures? This might be just another name for an Atlas or some other
manufacturer, also I would do searches on Ebay for the unit. You never
know what you will find. Bob W.
|
| Question:
Can anyone put me on to a used vertical
bench mill the smallest machine obtainable along with a
universal
precision dividing heads? Your information will certainly
be welcome with my thanks.
Stella
|
| Answer: Check out the Sherline group
of products www.sherline.com
R. Holbrook
|
| Question: I'm
redoing the Turcite on a YCM-30 Supermax Mill. Does any one know where to
purchase a piece of Turcite 12"x24"x1/6" and 1 pint of
turcite glue. Jazman
|
| Answer: www.mtsandtg.com
has turcite and bonding materials. Dennis
|
| Question: I
have an old Rockwell wood lathe Cat # 46 200; Ser # 2 3023 but no manual.
I want to replace the bearings but do not know how. Are there any manuals
around for this lathe or any suggestions? Thanks
,Siek
|
| Answer: PDF
copy of manual, Benoit.
|
| Response: Thanks,
next question: Does anyone know where I can find clamp plates, part number
61 for this Rockwell wood lathe? Siek
|
| Answer:
|
| Question: Has
anybody any suggestions for slide design and materials to use for a free
sliding table on a wood panel saw. My intention is to make the table from
laminated wood components and MDF. Is UHMW self adhesive tape good
enough as a frictionless bearing surface for the slides and where can it
be purchased ? All suggestions welcome Regards Frank
|
| Answer: Machinist Materials can
order UHMW pressure adhesive tape in rolls up to 50' in length and in
thicknesses from .010" to .125" both standard and custom
widths. JD
|
| Question: I
would like to know what is the best thing to put on cotton linings on
blinds, to stop them going moldy.
Foster
|
| Answer:
|
| Question: I
have a question on "stellite" prepared steel. I'm trying to
under stand exactly what this process is. I know it's a hardening process,
but is it a application to the surface of a particular steel part. Or is
it a process to the steel of the part itself, so the entire part is
hardened? Any help would greatly be appreciated!!!
THX. ...Mark
|
| Answer:
|
Question: I
came across some beryllium copper scraps and would like to do a little
creating with them, someone told me that machining it would create a toxic
gas, is this true?
James Page
|
| Answer: James, I have a friend who
worked in a machine shop where they machined beryllium copper. He
developed very serious respiratory problems from the dust he inhaled, and
was basically disabled for several years. He is doing fine now. I work
with thin sheets of this material at times but do not create any air-borne
dust. I wouldn't know about any issue concerning gasses. Good luck and play safe!
Steve
|
Question: I am looking
for a waterproof plastic(?) material approximately 3/8-1/2 thick,
6"x6"- none of the measurement are critical- on which to mount
an electric contact switch which is a control for an electric vehicle. I
am not too familiar with carbon fibre and am wondering if this is the
proper material to use? The switch connects to the accelerator pedal by
linkage and endures a lot of pressure. The electric system is
12volt(2x6volt) in series.
If you might be able to guide me to a site that may have the proper
material for this repair, I would be thankful. Thank You. Jack
|
| Answer: Most plastics are waterproof
to the extent that you are asking for. Delrin is hard and easy to machine.
UHMW has very low absorption qualities. Nylon might be an excellent
choice. I would suggest check out our Direct
Sales. JD
|
| Question: Can
you tell me how good 303 stainless steel will hold up to a 10% solution of
sodium hydroxide? Justin
Adams
|
| Answer:
|
| Question: I
have recently had a problem being that I need to put 4 M20 tapped holes
into a hardened piece of material (approx 46 - 48 Rockwell C). I
have been told you can spark them in, but I have had no luck in finding
anyone who can do this for me, and I was wondering if there is any other
way of doing this. Sandra
W.
|
Answer: My
guess is to try a EDM facility. I knew one place in Campbell, CA that may
have the machine to do that. Try "Rocky's Wire EDM". His address
is as follows. (I'm no longer in Campbell and have no business interest in
his company, just a friend.)
Rocky's Wire EDM
1-408-370-0339 FAX:1-408-379-1901
502-F VANDELL WAY
CAMPBELL, CA 95008
Jim Conragan
|
| Question: I
am trying to find out what the specifics are on red copper. I saw a length
of flat bar material that looked similar to brass, but it had a
slightly different coloration. I noticed a tag on the material
identifying the material as red copper. I would like to know some info on
this material, such as what it is used for , hardness ,etc. I was
impressed with the coloration of the material and would like to use it for
knife guards and bolsters. Any info on this will be greatly appreciated.
Follow up: there is a tag that says:
973782
CF Brass 360
Red/c:Copper
RL
65066-35
Can anyone explain what this information
means?
Roland R.
|
| Answer: This
may be what is called Red Brass which may contain 84 to 86% copper with
the rest being zinc. There are other alloys that contain some lead (13 to
17%) and small amount of tin. Of course it may not be this material at
all! Reference: Materials Handbook, 14th Ed.
Jim C.
|
Question: I
want to know if 303 can be completely annealed by heating to 1050 deg C in
a vacuum furnace and then chilled with liquid nitrogen? I have flats that
are bright drawn and are little lively to say the least after they have
been machined. I need them to stay flat and straight.
Sizes are 28mm x 8mm x 315mm long.
All the best Pete.
|
| Answer:
To Pete's question
about 303 annealing the answer is yes but the heat up and cool down must
be done slowly (~300C/per hour) in order to prevent distortion.
A Vacuum heat-treater
would probably run this process often and if he was flexible about
timing I could be very cheap to do for such a small part. Vacuum
would mean no discoloration. Mark
|
Question:
I have stainless with an end stamping of 99c 193 and a printed part
number of HT 63887. Do any of these marking make any sense to anyone as
far as grade goes, I could use a little help to get this stock back in
use. Thanks Tom B.
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| Answer: HT
63887 refers to the mill heat treatment lot number, you should be able to
go back to the original suppler and get new certifications on this
material. Gary D.
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| Question: Silicon
Carbide, can it be machined, how and with what? Tim Elam
|
| Answer: Try
a EDM shop, as long as it is electrically conductive that process should
work. Jim C.
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| Question: I
have a 1947 Model "A" Southbend metal lathe 9" by 48"
. I have just bought a lever operated collet closer . I sort of think it
may be for a Atlas lathe but it fits mine fine but doesn't work very well
on the release and hold . I disassembled it and all that is inside is a
flat slotted race with 8 ball bearings. I wonder if it is supposed to have
a expansion spring inside ? Any help would be welcome. Thanks. Barrie
Blake
|
| Answer: Try http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html
they have a lot of archival information. John D.
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| Question: Does
anyone know where I can buy scrap 309 Stainless in 1" round bars,
minimum length 8 1/2 " ? Thanks, Barrie B.
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| Answer:
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| Question: Can
anyone tell me where to purchase some .006" stainless, spring, or
music wire. Joe-
|
| Answer: MSC has it in steel. (we
have a link for MSC on our links page) Nolan Supply Corp has it
in steel and stainless steel. Ken M.
|
| Question: Can
303 stainless be hardened, or preferably case hardened ? I`m looking for a
free machining stainless than can be hardened on one section of a part I
want to fabricate. Thanks, Joe
|
| 300 series stainless can not
be heat treated, 400 series can, see chart.
John D.
|
Question: I'm
new to working plastics but want to experiment making knife handles.
Questions:
1) The type of jigsaw blade required. Sawing speed?
2) The best drills to use--HSS? Cobalt?
3) Can Delrin be sanded using a (bench mounted) belt sander?
Speed?
Belt composition? Degree of finish that can be achieved?
4) Can Delrin be painted?
5) Adhesive to use to bond to steel?
Sorry for all the questions, but any help/links would be appreciated!
Karl M.
|
| Answer: Delrin
is a marvelous material and can be worked by methods used on either wood
or aluminum. You might check our links page for the Glue Guru to ask about
adhesives. John D.
|
Question:
I have a job machining
9" Nylatron wheels that are cable guides. The last time I ran the
job (on a CNC) the most serious problem was
chip breakage...they would not break unless you started and stopped ie.
interrupting the cut. I can program in dwells to accomplish this
in the machining process but the chips still tend to wrap around every
thing. Is any tooling available that will cause
the Nylatron to chip off like delrin? I used very sharp carbide insert
OD and ID tools. Thanks for the help
Mike C.
|
| Answer: Mike, I
have had the same problem and solved it by attaching a shop-vac in close
to the tooling and simply kept the "ribbon-chip" sucked up
as it is produced. Really works slick! Eichers
|
| Answer: Unfortunately
nylon and even worse UHMW will not form a chip like Delrin. Another
problem is that this ribbon is strong and if enough of it gets wrapped
around things it could jam the machine and cause real damage.
Bob P.
|
Question: I
have a LeBlonde Lathe (12"x60") of I think WW II era. My
grandfather bought it to use in his construction business. Upon his
death I inherited it. It originally was driven by an overhead shaft
system, and my grandfather converted it to electric. I see no
identifying tags or markings on the lathe itself, except for the brass
plate that gives the individual gear ratios. This is marked with the
LeBlonde Company Cincinnati Ohio.
It is a heavy old lathe and in good repair except for the saddle which has
had an encounter with a hi-lo. The handles and dials have been
broken off. Does anyone know how to identify this lathe ?
Where can I go to gather information on this lathe, owners manual, repair
manual, schematic etc ???? Does anyone know where replacement parts
can be obtained ? I hate to make a boat anchor out of it. Any
and all information would be appreciated. Please email me if more
information is needed to identify this. Mancha
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| ANSWER: Go
to www.lathes.co.uk ; terrific site
featuring machinery from all over the world. It's called Lathe Archive.
Cool stuff. Enjoyed your sight. Joe -
|
ANSWER: I
would suggest checking eBay for manuals and/or catalogs. We have a
Southbend 9" 1930's model and were able to find some literature and
replacement part this way.
SEARCH
Bob P.
|
Question:
I need
a tape measure with 1/16" increments on one edge and decimal
equivalents on the other edge. Do you know where I can find one?
Ken G.
|
| Answer: Two good places to find these
type of tools is either MCS or Grainger's. We have added these links to
our links page. John D.
|
| Question: Years ago, I bought a
tool to automatically find centers on pipe or cylinders. It was one
of the simplest, most ingenious tools I have ever seen. It was made
of aluminum, pewter, or "pot metal", being gray in finish.
It was in the form of a "J", being about 1-1/2" wide at the
narrow, or leg, part and about 3-1/2" wide at the Hump or business
end. There was a "vee" relief-machined into the inner part
of the "J" and had two raised pegs on the back side of this.
You simply hung the "vee" on a pipe or cylinder and the inside
edge of the long leg of the "J" precisely bisected the pipe or
cylinder. The two pegs on the back were simply for larger pipes or
cylinders that were too big to fit into the recessed "vee" on
the front. Scribing one mark across the face of a
cylinder, then rotating the tool any unspecified amount and scribing again
would give the center at the intersection of the two scribed lines.
"Duck" Tape across the end of a piece of pipe gave the same
results. Unfortunately, I misplaced it and would like to procure
another one. Can anyone help? Don Calis
|
| Answer:
I have a 2001 Grizzly Industrial
catalog which has, on page 419, machinist combination squares which have
a V head which can be used for center finding. There are several
models having several prices. I am sure other sources would have a
similar tool. Emil K
|
Question: When we get different 300 series
stainless bars in they have distinct paint markings on the ends. How does
a guy
tell the difference between 302-304 (other than machining)
from the 316 stuff?? Is their a cheap way like chemical or
spark testing? Arnold J.
|
| Answer:
If you go to our links page and click on the
316 is not magnetic at all, some 304 stainless is.
John
D.
|
| Question: When talking about
plastics can someone explain the Rockwell numbers. Mark
H.
|
| Answer:
|
Question: On table saws
built by "Jet," they have a small (about 1" x 1" x
(1/16)") plastic wafer that is located under the rip fence locking handle. This plastic wafer appears to be nylon. At least it is
white in color, and no adhesives will hold it in place. This wafer is
required to lock the rip fence. Without it, there is too much play,
and the fence cannot be locked in place. It appears that this is a
common problem with these saws, that has no solution for "Jet."
I would like to replace the small piece that is attached to the rip
fence with a long thin piece that I would attach instead to the table.
The new piece would need to be 2" tall x 84" long x (1/16)"
thick. I could attach it with small screws. I would prefer to glue it down in
some manner. Any ideas? Thanks. Jon H.
|
| Answer:
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| Question:
I have machined a threaded aluminum plug to
close a threaded hole in an aluminum oil tank. It is a dry sump
oil tank in a car. What brand of epoxy should I use to make sure
the plug does not leak? Thanks, Hank
|
Answer:
Teflon Tape, then stake(peen) it in place , i
don't know if i would epoxy it in place what if you need to remove it
later,
after you put in plug, you use a center punch and a
ball peen hammer and you dimple around the threads on the plug, this
tightens the threads against each other and locks it in place.
Robert W.
|
| Answer: I would think one of the
problems would be heat. They make emergency replacement oil plugs, ones
that are a type of rubber that expand when you tighten them like a boat
transom plug. Michael P. |
| Question: I will be using a UHMW
round to produce a hub centric ring for a car wheel. I am tempted to
interference fit the UHMW into the aluminum wheel. The aluminum
wheel inside diameter is 2.875". Should I make the UHMW ring
outside diameter 2.875" at 65 degrees F? What will happen at
minus 20 degrees F? Rich B. |
| Answer: I would
imagine that the question is about the thermal contraction, expansion of
aluminum vs. UHMW. For UHMW the Coefficient of Linear Thermal
Expansion is 7.2 x 105 In/In/F. Where for aluminum
the Coefficient of Linear Thermal Expansion is
23.2e-6/K. I am not sure how these two numbers
equate, but I would believe that aluminum is going to have a higher
thermal expansion than UHMW. Paul G. |
Answer: Rich,
using the numbers that Paul gave the coefficient of thermal expansion of
the UHMW is higher than that for aluminum. The coefficient for aluminum is
23.2 x 10e-6/K which is 12.9e-6/F while that of UHMW is 72e-6/F. Since the
initial diameters at 65F is 2.875 then the change in diameters at -20F is
as follows:
Aluminum: 2.875 x 12.9e-6 x (-20 -(65)) = 2.875 x
0.0000129 x -85 = -0.0029"
UHMW: 2.875 x 72e-6 x (-20 -(65)) = 2.875 x 0.000072 x -85 = -0.0166"
The UHMW will be about 0.014" smaller in diameter at -20F (If I
didn't goof with the numbers.)
Jim C. |
Question: Hi, I have been trying
to find an instrument for measuring angles on a cylinder on my lathe.
I am not a machinist; but rather a wood worker on a wood lathe. A
friend tells me of some type of measuring device that I can put on the cylindrical piece of wood, set to level; then, turn a dial 14
degrees (for example) turn from original point of reference until
instrument is level again. That would produce one point 14 degrees
from the original.
Do you have or is there really such an instrument of measurement?
Please offer any information you can to help me in this ongoing
struggle. Thomas P. |
| Answer: Cut a "vee" in
one side of a two-by-four or two-by six that can be strapped to the
cylinder with bungee cords. Size of "Vee" is not
important. Mount a "needle" protractor on the flat side of
the cylinder and rotate the wood and protractor assembly until the
protractor reads 0 degrees or 90 degrees or some other point of reference,
turn the cylinder until the protractor reads 14 degrees, and Voila!!!
problem solved. If you don't understand this , E-mail me and I will
draw it up for you in TurboCad. The "needle" protractor is
of the type sold at Sears, Home Depot, or Lowes for about $7 to $10.
This is usually black, with two edges 90 degrees to each other, a white
dial face, and a red pendulum needle. If you really want to get
fancy and accurate, you can replace the protractor with a digital level.
Smartlevel makes one for about $125 that your hardware store can get for
you if he doesn't stock it. Don Calis |
| Question:
I have recently bought an old Leblonde lathe, 14x42. It has quite
a bit of wear on the carriage ways. I would like to install
turcite after machining. Do you know how one is supposed to attach
it? Nancy
|
Answer: After
a pocket is machined into the wear surface, the Turcite-B is secured in
place using a special epoxy.
See http://www.mtsandtg.com/products.htm
Somewhere I heard that Turcite-B is the same as Rulon 142, but I haven't
confirmed it yet. You can also build up the wear surfaces using
Moglice
epoxy.
See www.moglice.com.
Ken
|
Question: I build live steam locomotives. I want some
stainless steel round stock that I can cut with my power hack saw without ruining the
blade. It has to be free machining and resistant to corrosion because it will be used to
make throttle parts that will be subjected to fairly high temperatures say 300 to 500
degrees.
Will the 303 stainless work or do I need 304. What about 416? Rick |
| Answer: When you cut the
Stainless the secret is, coolant coolant coolant, do not let the blade get hot, and reduce
the speed of the saw, do not run the blade too fast. For a good coolant try using water,
not WD40 or oil these do not dissipate the heat fast enough. You might
try using a metal abrasive blade to cut the smaller size Stainless Steel bars. I do not
see why the 304 or 303 wouldn't work for your application. 303 is easier to
machine than 304 but 304 is better in a welding application, 316 is better suited for high
temp applications than 303 or 304. Gary |
| Answer: |
| Question: What adhesives will work well with UHMW or Delrin?
Or should I plan on using mechanical fastening with these plastics? Michael |
| Answer: I know of no adhesive
that works on UHMW, but you can weld it, look at www.abbeon.com
they have a catalog that contains thermoplastic welders. The only other means to fasten
UHMW is mechanical. Robert |
| Answer:
We offer several types of adhesive for use with UHMW. Please
contact our sales office for your specific application.
|